Living in Rabat, Morocco from 1966 through 1968, was to enjoy an amazing combination of the Moroccan and French cultures–two distinct and beautiful experiences and so diverse in every way: the ocean/sea and beaches; mountains and desert; modern towns complete with medinas and mellahs; shops and markets offering the best of Europe and Morocco; Arabs and Berbers; French and Spaniards; Mosques and Roman ruins; Citroens, camels and donkeys; day-in, day-out life and festivals of every make. These were the years of our first Christmases as a young married couple and in hindsight I realize that living in that Mediterranean culture very much set the seed for my love of Santons. The Moroccan/French world has so many similarities to Provence. Morocco was a French Protectorate from 1912 until 1956 (with the exception of areas in the northeastern part of the country which fell under the rule of Spain). The Santons were found in a bookstore window on Avenue Mohammed V in Rabat. At the time I didn’t begin to understand what they were, beyond being this delightful French nativity set. I knew then a bit more about the importance of Germany in the world of Christmas and was delighted to travel from Rabat to Heidelberg and find a toy store near the Hotel Ritter (where we stayed in the singular room on the very tippy-top floor), complete with a wonderful selection of German ornaments. This was the beginning of Christmases to come – French Santons and German ornaments – cultural traditions well established for hundreds of years.
In Rabat, we started out at the Hotel Balima and quickly found La Mamma (had no doubt that the Balima would be there to this day, but amazed that La Mamma is thriving – their Calzone wood-fired pizza was the ultimate–we have never found its equal anywhere else in our travels). The best of both the French and Moroccan cuisines. Markets laden with the freshest of fruits and vegetables (superb dates, oranges, melons, olives), seafood (from the Mediterranean and to include our first adventure in cooking snails) and meat (where it soon became apparent that it was important to know which were the butchers selling beef and mutton–and which were the ones selling horse meat–and even pork. Yes, we served a suckling pig to a special group of guests).
We spent that first Christmas on the edge of the desert, in Tafraoute. We travelled south, choosing to adventure along roads that were “as the crow flies” between Taroudant and Tafraoute. The road was on the map, but was not in any way car-friendly. It was dry, dusty, and ruled by enormous ruts (and I do not exaggerate). I remember the children who would appear from out of nowhere by the side of the road holding out amethyst crystals, yelling: “ame-T-hyst, ame-T-hyst.” We stopped and bought. How could one not. Once we had travelled far enough, it was clear that we did not, in any way, want to continue, but it made no sense to turn back. We owned two vehicles, an MG sedan and the Simca. Wisely, we had the Simca with us, knowing that if the car had problems, it would be conceivable to repair it beyond a town-center. Indeed, the car broke down – the accelerator cable a casualty of the road. While my husband removed a shoelace from his boots to make “the” repair (that shoelace, by the way, carried us for the next two weeks, all the way back to Rabat), I remember watching the dung beetles methodically rolling their reward millimeter by millimeter up the road. Fascinating.
Hours later than we had anticipated, we finally arrived at our Christmas destination – the Hotel les Amandiers, in a former French Foreign Legion post. (The large edifice in the foreground of the photo below.)

Powered by generators during the day, there was no electricity at night. Christmas Eve by candle light was complete with the traditional French réveillon de Noel (as celebratory as the Thirteen desserts of Provence) – soupe de legumes, turkey with a chestnut stuffing, wonderful vegetables, and for dessert, the traditional French bûche de Noël.
On the way home, we drove north along the coast, through Agadir, and saw for the first time the spectacle of goats climbing in Argan trees.

I think of them each and every time I wrap up a Grazing Goat – Chèvre qui broute for a customer. The undigested pits of the argan fruit (much like an olive) found in the dung of the goats which climb the Argan trees to eat their fruit, were collected by the locals and ground for their oil. UNESCO now protects the tree (an endangered species) valued for its oil, used both in cooking and for health.